Last Resort Blades – Made to order Blade – Memorial Day Raffle.
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My Slicer has been a popular knife this spring , probably because not a lot of custom knife makers seem to make them. This slicer or abbreviated scimitar as prefer to call it, is just a touch smaller than the knives I’ve done early this year by about two inches.
The scales are made from Osage Orange post that was taken out of a fence after serving time holding back cattle for over 100 years. The age of the wood was evident by the deep orange-red color. Still harder than a rock and very durable.
I’m not sure this little guy counts as a Santoku considering he has a western style handle. Nothing wrong with the Japanese handle I just feel a western handle with a nice birds beak is hard to beat.
Well not much has changed with my skinner. I just used 1095 instead of O1 , its usual spec steel. More for the ability to get a hamon on the blade than anything.
Both steels are great steels I would still favor the O1 in performance, but its hard to get a hold of sometimes and I must admit using New Jersey Steel Baron’s 1095 has been nothing but consistent and fun.
This blade was commissioned by a friend looking for a graduation gift for his nephew. I have known this friend for a lot of years and jumped at the chance to make him a knife.
His nephew is an avid sportsman. Shooting sports and hunting are his passions it was just natural to assume his choice in knives would follow those lines.
I am pushing my hunting line to be high performance, razor sharp, light weight blades. They have a slim profile to keep out of the way on the belt. I contour the handle heavily to make up for the lost mass. The swoop in the blade helps catch tissue or hide giving the user more control. A deep finger choil helps keep the knife in the hand. Micarta is a favorite handle material in my hunting knives. As I have said before it is one of the few materials that gets sticky when it is wet.
Carbon steels are excellent heavy use steels and in my opinion can’t be matched by a stainless steel. There are some stainless steels out there that are amazing, like AEB-L. To me its still not the same as a good old 10X , high, and low alloy steel.
I have been doing some research on knives made in the 17-1900’s in the U.S and England. The styles and production processes, and that’s helped feed my interest in the traditional steels I suppose.
I’ve read a lot of performance charts on a lot of different steels. I’m no expert. However, I am starting to believe the difference between steels that have been around a long time and some of the super steels is minimal. The super steels are great on paper but performance in real life might be so minute that the average user will never really notice.
I’m not saying , stay away from the super steels. Not at all! I have all kinds of S30V and other super steel blades. I am actually a big fan of such steels. However marginal the improvements might be , they are still improvements and that’s what this game is all about, making better knives.
So like anything, be skeptical , be cautious and don’t rush out to be the guy to have the first knife in the latest greatest steel. There has never been a steel to do it all.
This slicer was made as a retirement gift for a guy who likes to do presentations with prime ribs and larger cuts of meat. I like a lot of contrast in my handles and stumbled across some spalted magnolia that surprised me when finish was applied. The dark rings and detail really set this knife off in my opinion.
I’m no expert on the ” rules” behind what makes a knife this or that kind of knife. I realize there are probably names and specifics around certain styles of knives especially Japanese knives. I know there is a difference between a French chefs knife and a German chefs knife and so on and I get the need for such designations.
However, I just like to make knives and call them what I like. This knife is made to slice large cuts of meat. What seems important to me is that friction is reduced as much as possible. I kept the blade long and thin. The finger choil is added to provide the user with some clearance for the fingers so they can worry about a long smooth cut and not their fingers hitting a cutting board.
I researched a ” good cut on large roast ” and what I found out is the carver wants to avoid a lot of small hand movements that result in a saw like cutting pattern on the surface of the meat. This is also why the length of the knife is important. Slicing knives are 9″ up to 14″ in some cases. Since this knife would travel I chose to keep it at 10″ for convenience.
The handle scales are coated in tongue oil to bring out the color and I have found gets a little sticky when wet. Its also easy to maintain should the handle need some attention down the road.
The wooden scabbard ( I’m sure there is a fancy name from the far East I don’t know) but scabbard sounds like something a pirate would use so that’s what I am going to call it was an after thought when I was trying to find a box to ship this knife safely in. I figured the only way to protect the blade was incase it in some wood. I had seen kitchen knives kept in wooden scabbards before , but had never tried my hand at it. The challenge was how I was going to secure the knife in the scabbard. The solution was simple, just a leather strap that is held in place by a pin.
Its surprising to me how many people do not realize the Bowie’s origins ( despite being named after an early American hero.) The Bowie is characterized by its massive size from clip to pommel .
Its said that the original bowie was influenced by Spanish / French sailors. The Bowie started life out as a fighting knife. Commissioned by Jim Bowie’s brother as a way for Jim to protect himself it was the Colonial concealed carry at the time.. only there was no concealing it was all about intimidation and in the right hands probably intimidation turned into a bad day for the guy on the other end.
This knife is modeled after the bowie , with a sharpened clip and oversized features. I would not classify this as a full bowie knife. Anything with a blade under 9″ really isn’t a bowie knife but that could be argued by some.
I used copper for the guard and pins. Ebony handle and an O1 blade.
Overall Length- 12 ” approx.
Blade Length – 6.75″
Handle Length – 5.5″ from pommel to end of guard
Blade Material — trusty O1 Tool Steel
Handle Material – Macassar Ebony ( not endangered)
Grind – flat grind with a secondary bevel
Satin finish on blade. Copper pins and guards
Damascus is a beautiful material. It like all steels has its issues but the end results , if skill and luck hold out are beautiful. This knife was made from Alabama Damascus , a brand name known for its unusually dark patterns. This was my first attempt at a Damascus from the U.S. and was very impressed by it.
knife specs :
Overall Length- 9.5″
Blade Length- 5″
Handle Length- 4.5″
Blade Material – Damascus
Handle Material – Ebony
So , not only was January brutally cold in Nebraska. I also had to struggle with a couple knives that for some reason , didn’t want to be finished. Cedar scales , I cut myself, my go to steel O1 and soon to be leather sheath.
I made a test knife to build from. I found out right away the handle although looking simple on paper ended up being the hardest part of the build. I’ve mentioned in the past my struggles with handle scales but right now its not the basic pin alignment issue. I’ve since moved on to focus on fit and finish of the knife . Keeping symmetry is ultimately my end goal. Each knife is getting better. Its about the focus and practice right! I’ll update when I get the sheath and handles finished.
Knives are prox. 7 ”
O1 tool steel
Sheath soon to be leather.
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Insight into a blend of old blacksmithing meets new world Knife Smiths. This is a quick overview of what it takes to bring one blade to life. A blend of old world knowledge and new world technology brings forth a functional piece of art.
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I shut down my store so I thought I would post some of my knives on the blog. If interested contact me via my form below. Thanks!
Here are some of my new knives:
The knife below is an experiment of sorts. I based it off a standard drop point hunting knife with a deep choile at the start of the cutting edge to assist in detailed work. The handle is made so that when the blade is flipped in the hand , facing the user, the middle and index finger now control the cutting edge. Handy if you are peeling something like a potato. It does take some getting used to but after a few minutes it becomes handy.
The knife above I made for my wife. I had initially made her a nice Damascus chef’s knife and to my disappointment she never used it. This was my fault because I failed to recognize the fact that she never uses big knives. Always using a thin steak knife or a paring knife to do about 90% of the work.
Realizing my error, I decided to build something in between. I do feel she needs a little bigger knife for those chopping jobs that require some leverage. O1 steel impresses me with its ability to get sharp and stay sharp. the down side is , if you like a polished bade with no blemishes , O1 is not for you. It tends to tarnish if not etched. For me the oxidation is an upside. I can’t wait to see some miles on this knife and how it will look in a couple years! Gonna be bad ass!
I am a fan of the old stuff, and vintage tools. Those things have a story you can almost hear in the dents , scratches, and dings.
So where do I rate myself as a knife maker? I’m still a rookie. There are a lot of knives I have not attempted yet, but want to. I feel comfortable with what I have made to date. They all hold an edge, have good handles, and do the job they were intended to do.
Opportunities- My plunge lines … not perfect yet but I did some tuning to the grinders platen and modified my technique a lot to help with that. Handles , surprisingly coming along better than I expected. If you had read any of my earlier posts you would know I struggled with handles / scales at first. I slowed things down, took my time and did a lot more hand work. I want to take this a big further and come up with a way to work on keeping everything really proportional. I’m about 70% there. In time !
Oh! forgot to mention I am tooling up for some sheath work. I will start out with some Chicago screws and kydex and move into leather. Another learning opportunity and adventure. lets us hope it is better than learning how to grind handles and scales …